The Effects of Finger Extensor Training on Climbing Performance Compared With Traditional Flexor Training

Hand, forearm strength, and endurance are highly important elements in elite climbers. Constant training is essential, e.g. eccentric-concentric training of finger flexors. Climbers have traditionally trained finger flexor strength for climbing performance, however to our knowledge, no formal protocol exists for training extensor tendons. In a study performed by Devise, finger flexor to extensor strength ratios were found to be 3:1 in non-climbers. In experienced or elite climbers however, the average ratio was 6:1 and as high as 9:1. Upper extremity injuries are most common in rock climbers, with finger injuries being most prevalent. Pulley injuries, consisting of rupture of the A2 or A4 annular pulleys are the most common type of injury. Other finger injuries include tenosynovitis of the flexor tendons, as well as lumbrical muscle tears. The coordinated action of flexor and extensor tendons allows for a wide range of hand movements, including grasping, gripping, and releasing objects, as well as intricate finger movements. The pulleys along the tendons (annular and cruciate) act as fulcrums, increasing the mechanical advantage of the tendons and allowing for efficient flexion. Damage to either flexor or extensor tendons can lead to significant loss of hand function. The purpose of our study, is to assess climbing performance metrics that include max strength testing on a rock climbing hangboard, maximum grip strength, assessment of pain and function using the DASH (disability of the arm, shoulder and hand), and maximum flexor strength and maximum extensor strength in climbers who perform a traditional finger training protocol compared to climbers who train both traditional flexor training protocol and extensor tendons.

Inclusion criteria

• Adults aged 18 years or older
• Recreational to advanced rock climbers as defined by the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) scale
• Climbing experience of at least 1-2 sessions per week for the past 6 months OR a minimum of 2 years of climbing experience
• Ability to commit to two 45-minute training sessions per week for 6 weeks
• Access to a hangboard or fingerboard and appropriate loading equipment
• Ability to provide informed consent
• Willingness to refrain from climbing the day prior to testing sessions

Exclusion criteria

• Upper extremity injury (hand, wrist, elbow, or shoulder) within the past 6 months
• Participation in a structured or organized hangboard training protocol within the past 4 months
• Climbing less than 1-2 times per week during the past 6 months and less than 2 total years of climbing experience
• Age under 18 years
• Inability to safely perform maximal isometric finger flexion or extension testing
• Inability or unwillingness to comply with the study protocol